That’s the only way I can describe the food at Berta. Each dish leaves you hanging and longing for more. I had been saving my first visit to this effortlessly cool restaurant for months and managed to make a last minute date with a friend for a long overdue catch-up.

Berta is unashamedly noisy, but there is a undeniable charm about the place. The staff are friendly and efficient with their service – especially with the line of patrons at the bar eyeing off customers who call for their bill. That said, we had no trouble getting a table despite their no bookings policy (I suggest arriving around 6pm for a guaranteed seat).

We begin with the scallops. These little parcels of flavour explode in your mouth: you didn’t see it coming, you can’t fathom how it happened, you just know you want more. Served in their shell, the scallops are just cooked, though still soft in the middle. Swirling in the olive oil are sprinkles of bread crumbs and parsley. Subtle five spice flavours also seep through, adding a nice unexpected contrast to the dish.

Scallop sugna breadcrumbs $4.5 each

The duck mandilli (or duck ‘handkerchief’, as our waitress explains) features braised duck wrapped in pillows of pasta sheets. There is a very intriguing flavour in the broth which I can’t quite decipher, which adds a rich and spicy earthiness to the dish that’s really quite appealing. My money is on the olives.

Duck mandilli de saea olive $24

We couldn’t resist ordering braised chuck steak, which is listed on the menu simply as ‘beef’, a rather amusing yet modest undersell. The meat is supple and gives way with the gentle push of the fork, but is not the ‘fall apart tender’ that I expect. It has bite and texture to it, which grows on me. The cauliflower puree is velvety smooth and soaks up the surrounding sauce.

Beef $30

The vege dish of snowpea, broad bean and horseradish is so simple, you wonder why you haven’t had it before. The vegetables are cooked to a perfect crunch and dressed with what seems like a cheesy parsley butter sauce.

Snowpeas broadbean horseradish $15

We finish on a dessert of chocolate hazelnut parfait, which is essentially a chocolate and hazelnut semifreddo with a scoop of pear sorbet on top. It is an interesting combination and the chocolate wins me over. It is so rich and creamy – even better than Lindt’s 70% dark, which is my go-to dark chocolate ice cream.

Chocolate hazelnut parfait $14

I have been won over by Berta and there’s no denying other Sydney foodies feel the same: less than 3 months from opening, Berta was nominated for Best New Restaurant in the 2011 Good Food Guide. If this is just the beginning, I see great things on the cards for this little gem!

Berta
17-19 Alberta Lane
Surry Hills
NSW 2000
www.berta.com.au
Open Monday through to Saturdays from 5pm to late.

An 11.4kg suckling pig rolled in on a trolley somehow trumps all of the above.

A group of bloggers recently attended a ‘Pig & Pinot’ dinner at Chophouse, a moody North American inspired steakhouse located in the inner city.

The dinner was hosted by the restaurant’s General Manager, Adam Heathcote, who gave us an entree into what Chophouse does best: quality produce that’s sourced direct from the fields and retains its freshness and integrity.

Adam addressed the issue of educating the public about food. It seems that mass production and genetic modification has really brainwashed our conceptions of what food should look and taste like. One example is heirloom carrots, which is purple in colour – not orange.

Adam’s passion and dedication towards fresh local produce is truly inspiring. Chophouse’s black truffles, for instance, is sourced from the Southern Highlands, which makes them incredibly fresh having been out of the ground for less than 24 hours. I think it’s fantastic to see Chophouse support local suppliers, paticularly while they’re in their infancy.

The Mt. Lowe truffle featured on our ceviche of Hervey Bay sea scallops, which was served on the shell. It was very subtle, though the smell and taste was there. The scallops were luscious in texture, sweet on the tongue. That said, I wasn’t entirely satisfied with this dish as a ceviche, I felt it was lacking in acid and possibly a little extra dressing.

We also tasted an entree of jamon and Italian buffalo milk mozzarella. I found it a little difficult to evaluate this dish as I’m not really a jamon fan. In terms of flavour, I thought it was a nicely balanced dish, highlighted with the addition of roasted fennel, onion and almonds. I particularly liked the onion, which was beautifully rendered with balsamic. There was no rawness at all, only a smokey sweetness that was so incrediby surprising. I don’t think I’ve had onion that well cooked before!

When the big ticket item rolled around, we all went a little pork mad. Executive Chef, David Clarke carved several platefuls of the suckling pig, topped with plenty of crackling. Though it was obvious that the highly sought after parts were the nose, tail and ears.

Accompanying the sucking pig was a caesar salad ‘wedge’, a cauliflower gratin and green beans. The caesar salad was my pick of the three – so refreshing to see caesar presented so well in a restaurant. No sloppy bowl affairs at Chophouse, it’s all class!

Our dinner ended with a dessert of caramelised banana cheesecake. I thought it was a simple dessert with very little fanfare – until Adam brought over bottles of Hennessy and Grapa. I don’t think I’ve ever had dessert paired with 43% alcohol before. The Grapa was intriguing, very floral and spicy, but much too heavy for my liking. Interesting concept though.

We also devoured slices of Chophouse’s signature chocolate block, served on a wooden board with a mini cleaver. The block is made in house using a combination of milk and dark chocolate from Lindt. It was the perfect coffee accompaniment.

Chophouse will shortly be launching a 1920’s inspired New York carvery with a rotating daily special. The menu is yet to be finalised, but suckling pig is definitely on the cards. Stay tuned!

Chophouse
25 Bligh Street
Sydney City
NSW 2000
# 1300 246 748
www.chophouse.com.au

Open Monday to Friday from 12pm until late and Saturday from 6pm until late.

I recently met with Ghazaleh Lyari, the founder of Ghermez Cupcakes. Ten years ago, Ghazaleh was a high flying investment banker on Wall Street. Now she’s the head of a booming cupcake business, concoting new flavours and managing the day-to-day of her brand’s three stores.

“Having worked with so many entrepreneurs, I’ve always wanted the opportunity to be the girl in charge,” Ghazaleh tells me and admits that she explored several business models before settling on cupcakes. What prompted this decision was that serious businessmen in the US were investing in cupcakes.

Sydney is no stranger to cupcakes and Ghazaleh has cleverly identified a gap in the market. Ghermez caters for a different kind of consumer, one perhaps like Ghazaleh herself who doesn’t have a sweet tooth but will indulge in a seriously good piece of cake.

Having done her research, Ghazelah set out to make quality cupcakes with a variety of unique flavours set out in a stylish environment. Her cupcakes are baked fresh everyday, using wholesome natural ingredients. No thick slabs of fluro buttercream on her cupcakes, everything is made from scratch – including the strawberry icing which is made fresh daily with real strawberries.

Ghermez currently have 20 flavours on their menu, with new flavours added seasonally. Dulce de leche is one of these flavours as is the new gluten free orange and almond (with more to come!).

“My inspiration for new flavours come mostly from my mother’s cooking. She is an amazing cook, and I grew up in a household where fabulous, wholesome and delicious food was around no matter when you walked through the doors!” Ghazaleh says, “She makes a lot of beautiful sweets and uses a lot of ingredients from the east, including pistachios, rose water, orange blossom extract.”

I got to sample a few of Ghazaleh’s creations, which included Chocolate Honey, Chocolate Marshmallow, Red Velvet, Dulce de Leche and Strawberry.

The standouts are undoubtedly the two chocolate flavours, both fluffy and moist – a rare quality missing in most cupcakes. The flavour of honey in the Chocolate Honey cupcake is subtle, well-balanced and not too overly sweet. Meanwhile, marshmallow forms the gooey centre of the Chocolate Marshmallow and makes a very clever (and addictive!) combination.

Ghazleh has big plans for her brand in the years to come, “My objective with Ghermez is to make sure we are regarded as ‘best in class’. I am hoping that ‘Ghermez’ will be a brand associated with all things delicious and stylish.”

Expanding beyond cupcakes is definitely on the cards. Ghazaleh has her eye on the next venture, and we’re all excited to find out what it is!

As the region borders Laos and Cambodia, the food is quite different from the Thai that we are used to. First of all, there are a lot of salads and soups, and most dishes are eaten with sticky rice (kao niao). The flavours are explosive and not only because it is spicy.

All the memories from my journey to Isaan came flooding back when I dined at House, the latest offering from the Spice I Am family. House looks like a cross between a bistro and a beer garden. While the setting works perfectly for the food, it is a little irritating to have to venture next door for drinks (there’s also no BYO, unlike the original).

The grilled dishes at House are outstanding and easily the staple here. The pork neck skewers (Moo Ping) are perfectly marinated and cooking by chargrill adds a smokey caramel flavour to the meat. The ox tongue (Ping Lin) is tender and fleshy pink in the middle, accompanied with a tangy dipping sauce. The grilled chicken (Gai Yang) isn’t as juicy and plump as pictured on the menu, however, the flavours are aromatic and nicely balanced.

Moo Ping $10

Ping Lin $10

Gai Yang $16

The salads are vibrant and fresh, although the flavours slightly one-note as they all share the same chilli and lime dressing. The Som Tum Thai is as tongue numbing as the original Spice I Am. Eating this at the start coats your tongue in throbbing chilli, a sensation that stays with you long after the meal is over.

The Yum Woon Zen, which combines vermicelli with pork mince, calamari, prawns and celery, is milder and features a nice sprinkling of ingredients. Meanwhile, the Yum Naam with steamed fermented pork sausage is an interesting take on what’s usually eaten plain with sticky rice.

Som Tum $7

Yum Naam - $12

Yum Woon Zen - $14

The soup selection also lack variety – the base in each dish is essentially the same (tom yum) so ordering two soups almost seems redundant. The flavour in the tom yum is more pungent and amplified than the Thai version. The Tom Yum Powng Kai with embryo eggs came highly recommended, but I found them very rubbery with no real texture or flavour at all. The Tom Nua Toun, a slow cooked beef spicy soup, is an easy favourite with its meltingly soft beef pieces.

Tom Yum Powng Kai $16

Tom Nua Toun $14

We finished off our meal with a slew of desserts, including the now famous BTS or ‘Better Than Sex’. This dessert features one thick sliced brioche deep fried and topped with a scoop of pandan ice cream and palm syrup. It is a really interesting combination and is strangely addictive. However, at $15, it’s not a cheap dessert.

The other two desserts on the menu – a shaved ice number with taro and ruby chestnuts and a simple ice cream sandwich combo – lack the drama and cheekiness of the BTS. They are nice desserts but no real wow factor to be seen.

BTS $15

Kati num kang dai $5

Bread and ice cream $5

I don’t immediately see Spice I Am fans taking a liking to House. Like Spice I Am’s restaurant in Darlinghurst, the menu is completely different to the original. House has a very limited offering when it comes to main dishes, however, dishes are under $18 which is an attractive price point for budget conscious diners.

Having been three times now, I’ve noticed that the serving sizes have gotten smaller as House gets busier (thanks to the string of positive publicity in all the key food review sections). On our last and most recent visit, our portion of Som Tum was only two thirds the size of our first visit and our BTS was pricier. We couldn’t help but feel a little ripped off, especially given our relatively positive experience during the first two visits. Let’s hope they introduce some consistency to their sizing and pricing, or they may struggle to find loyal customers.

House

House
202 Elizabeth St
Surry Hills
NSW 2010
# 02 9280 0364

Open daily from 12pm to 2am.

I was invited along to Zeta Bar at the Hilton Hotel last week for a sneak peak of their new Winter Concept promotion, which sees their rooftop terrace transform into lively outdoor fare inspired by London’s Convent Garden.

It’s just one of the many pop-up events taking place around Sydney this winter, including Winterland at Carriageworks, Bondi Bergstation and Ice Blue Festival at Burwood.

Every Friday night this winter, Zeta Bar will offer an array of winter-inspired Zeta creations including mulled wine (spiced with cinnamon, ginger and orange), Hot Toddy’s ($12) and roasted chestnut infused cocktails ($19).

Zeta Bar has also introduced Nitro Eggnog ($5) to the menu, which takes a playful and experimental twist on the classic winter drink. It reminded me a lot of the Nitro Puffs from the Cryogenic Sorbet launch earlier this year. The puffs tasted like eggnog ice cream, only creamier with a nice spicy finish. It was such joy to watch the guys at the bar make this number and even more fun to eat!

The mulled wine ($8) was a particular highlight for me. I’ve never had one before and was surprised by how soothing and comforting it was (and not just because I’ve had a busy week at work!). The mulled wine is served piping hot to order, perfect for battling the winter chill.

And how could I overlook the roasted chestnuts ($6)! One of my favourite winter treats, chestnuts are notoriously tricky to cook, so it was nice to see these on the menu – along with toasted marshmallows ($5).

The menu isn’t the only thing that’s changed. For Winter Concept, Zeta Bar has also brought in buskers, street performers, jugglers, live music, a caricature artist and even a shoe shiner!

Zeta Bar
Level 4, Hilton Hotel
488 George Street
Sydney
# 02 9265 6070
www.zetabar.com.au

Thanks to Horizon Communications and Hilton Hotels for inviting us along. Photography provided by Hilton Hotels and Bar Solutions.

I was shuffled into my 4th different team at work in less than a year and there were plenty of rumours and innuendo about the future of the organisation. I received a call from a recruiter with some promising news signalling the end of the GFC – it was a sign for me to jump ship and find something new.

After a few meetings with the recruiter, four long and intense interviews and a psycho test over 4 months, I finally had a new employment contract in my hands and called Tetsuya’s to make a booking for the next available dinner.

“June 9,” says the voice on the other end – over 3 months away! The GFC was well and truly over.

Sharing the Tetsuya’s experience with us were two of our Tastebuds, Lisa and Andrew. Dining with company certainly helped the night move along as we were there for just over 4 hours.

Warm chestnut soup

Opening the batting was a warm chestnut soup. The smell of the chestnuts and the feeling of warming up by a chestnuts roasting on an open fire was perfect on this very cold winter’s night. A nice way to warm up our tasting muscles for the night ahead of us.

Sourdough and truffle butter with ricotta and parmesan

The truffle butter was hyped up during the weeks prior to our big night by one of Ms. Taste’s girlfriends who had just visited with her partner. They boasted of cleaning out 3 pots of the stuff between the two of them – and they were right to do so, the butter was smooth with a slight cheesy bite and the enticing smell really compelled us to pack it onto every last corner of our hot bread rolls.

Pacific oysters with rice vinegar and ginger

The oysters were a $9 a pair supplement to our dinner. Ms. Taste opted to pass on these and we made sure to let her know what she was missing out on. Some of the freshest oysters I’ve tasted, so plump and juicy with that distinct taste of the ocean lingering with the acidity of the vinegar and ginger in each heavenly mouthful.

Tamanohikari, Junmai-Ginjo Tokusen Sake

The first of the matched wines was a very smooth and clean sake. The matched wines are $90 which is equivalent to a whole bottle, however you can choose to have one serving shared between two so you aren’t completely smashed by the time desserts roll around. Unfortunately my wine palette has yet to evolve past the “goon/delicious not-goon” test and I can safely say that each wine falls deep into “delicious not-goon” territory.

Sashimi of Kingfish with black bean and orange

A real knockout dish, the kingfish received a unanimous tick of approval from all diners. The familiar texture of the firm fish with the soft crunch of the greens reminiscent of the classic steamed fish with ginger and shallots, taken to the next level in flavour by the slightly citrusy soy sauce.

New Zealand scampi tails with curd and tarragon jus

This dish received a mixed reaction, with most of use praising the freshness of both the scampi and the tofu. However the dish as an ensemble didn’t click with me as I couldn’t get into all the different soft textures on the plate.

Confit Petuna ocean trout with konbu, celery and apple

Tetsuya’s signature confit of ocean trout arrives, identically presented on each of our plates, identical to the countless photographs of the dish we have seen over the past few years. The table falls silent with each diner savouring their mouthfuls of magic and nodding to themselves with a quiet confidence that the weeks of hype and expectations have been well and truly met. His close relationship with supplier Petuna Seafoods has allowed him to pick the best of the best ocean trout, with years of selective breeding in accordance with his high standards resulting in the firm, marbled piece of fish in front of us.

Grilled fillet of barramundi with braised wood ear, enoki and chestnut mushrooms

This dish, I did not want to finish. It just smelt so fantastic, I wanted that beautiful aroma of the mushrooms and the sauce to stay with my nose and not my stomach. The fish was fresh and perfectly cooked, but the star was the delicious umami flavour from the mushrooms – a perfect marriage of the land and the sea.

Braised ox tail with sea cucumber and yuzu

Our first meat dish of the evening, a hard act following the two near-perfect courses that preceded it. The ox tail is meaty and flavourful and the sea cucumber is… well, bland and rubbery like how a sea cucumber is supposed to taste. I notice the table next to us being served their ocean trout and secretly wish for 2 or 3 or 10 more ocean trout courses.

Twice cooked de-boned spatchcock with truffle and barley risotto

I remember seeing this little parcel of chicken wobbling as it was served, seemingly bursting at the seams. Each bite unleashed a harmony of juices filling each mouthful with a mixture of sweetness from the chicken and savoury from the sauce anchored by the flavours from the truffle. A comment echoed many times throughout the night is heard again, “If they doubled the serving size of this dish, it would be perfect.”

Grass-fed Tasmanian Angus beef with swiss browns and porcini

The final savoury dish for the night was a classic steak, mushrooms and mash. The steak is not overly fatty and soft like wagyu but firm and very meaty, highlighting the flavours and quality of the beef. Each component is well executed and the dish’s heaviness put our stomachs near capacity, with just enough room left for dessert.

Pear sorbet with bread and butter pudding

The first of the desserts, the pear sorbet with walnuts acts as a palette cleanser and the rich and creamy bread and butter pudding is a comforting winter warmer. All the flavours compressed into the tiny shot glass packed a mighty punch – definitely my favourite dessert of the night.

Cannellini beans with marscapone and soy caramel

The second dessert course featured a hint of goats cheese which Ms. Taste found overwhelming – enough for her to offer her plate to everyone multiple times. It was a good dessert, although the mascarpone and soy did not really click with me.

Salted sable with lemon scented cream and leatherwood honey

The soft and buttery sable turned into a crumbly mess after a few digs of my fork – the sign of a very good shortbread. The lemon scented cream and slightly bitter leatherwood honey worked in beautifully with the shortbread and was a well-constructed and thought out dessert.

Lemon, Almond and Rose Macarons

Our final course was a small plate of macarons – the lemon flavour was the standout from a relatively bland selection. Ms. Taste, a bit of a self-professed macaron expert, points out that there is uneven rise on the shells. These must’ve been made a few days prior as the biscuit is quite hard compared to the lusciously soft creations at Adriano Zumbo and Le Renaissance.

Tetsuya's macarons

Cappuccino

For those of you yet to embark on the Tetsuya’s experience, be sure to tune in to SBS tonight at 7:30pm for the documentary, Tetsuya’s Pursuit of Excellence. The documentary takes an intimate look into Tetsuya’s journey from a young kitchen hand speaking no English to one of the world’s greatest chefs. There are also interviews with friends and mentors, Danny White, Armando Percuoco, Tony Bilson, Ferran Adria, Heston Blumenthal and Richard Geoffroy Chef du Cave at Dom Perignon.

We were provided a preview copy and it was the perfect entree to our meal at Tetsuya’s. You really appreciate your meal much more, knowing the quality ingredients and deatiled selection that goes into each dish.

I hope I’ve given you all a taste of what dining at Tetsuya was like. It was truly an experience never to be forgotten. In fact, Ms. Taste and I are planning to visit Tetsuya’s new restaurant Waku Ghin in Singapore at the end of the year. And we have high expectations!

Tetsuya’s
529 Kent Street
Sydney NSW
# 02 9267 2900
www.tetsuyas.com

I couldn’t think of a more special occasion than enjoying my first meal there alongside the restaurant’s co-owner and executive chef, Peter Kuruvita. A real charmer and visionary, he’s one of the loveliest chefs I’ve ever met.

Peter is a captivating and entertaining host, with lots of anecdotes to share. He’s been in the restaurant circuit a long time and has worked with the likes of Michel Roux, Tony Bilson, Neil Perry and Greg Doyle. He is an expert on seafood and has a strong stance on seafood sustainability.

Peter Kuruvita

Peter has just returned from Sri Lanka filming a documentary series entitled Serendip: My Sri Lankan Journey. The eight part series will debut on SBS later this year and will showcase the many delights of Sri Lankan food and culture.

Flying Fish is tucked away at the very end of Jones Bay Wharf, with spectacular views of the harbour and East Balmain. Split over two levels, the restaurant was designed by award winning restaurant designer, Michael McCann of Dreamtime Australia Design.

His vision for the restaurant is quite astounding. On one hand, Flying Fish preserves the original twentieth century wharf features – including the dark timber slatted ironwood walls and overhead steel trusses. But on the other, there are the modern touches, like the contemporary furnishings, artworks and the restaurant’s wine cellar which features over 150 bottles of wine suspended horizontally on a gold coloured Jim Thompson silk covering.

The menu at Flying Fish showcases the freshest seasonal Australian produce, including seafood that’s delivered daily by boat. The signature dish is the seared yellow fin tuna with ruby red grapefruit and sweet pork crackling – a dish I sampled and enjoyed at Taste of Sydney.

As we sat down for the dinner in the upstairs private dining room, a serene calm swept over me. Although it is dark, the twinkling reflections on the water outside is quite mesmerising. And then there are the drop lights, which are magical in the sense you feel like you’re dining under the stars.

I couldn’t resist ordering the sashimi platter for my entree. While this dish changes frequently, I am greeted with Snapper, Ocean Trout, Ocean Trout Nigri, Kingfish and Garfish. Other varieties include Kobia, Black Kingfish and Petuna. The sashimi was so incredibly fresh, sweet on the tongue, supple in texture. I don’t think I’ve had fresher sashimi outside of Japan. Garfish is one fish I haven’t tried raw and I wasn’t sure what to make of it – it had a nice texture but an unusual rubbery aftertaste.

Sashimi platter - $48

A quick snap before my dining companion tucks in - Tomato, olive and basil salad with Roy de Vallees cigars - $28

With my unusual allergy to certain types of fish, I was wary about picking my main. I eventually took a gamble on the flathead, crossing my fingers that my throat wouldn’t well up like a balloon.

What I’ve noticed about the mains at Flying Fish is the combination of several types of protein in one dish – for example, fish, shellfish and cured ham on mine, and chicken, fish and shellfish on another. This makes for an exciting mix of flavours and textures, especially when teamed with root vegetables and legumes.

Seared flathead fillets with poached scampi, jamon Iberico and parsnip - $47

Pan roasted blue eye with scallop mousse, white beans, pumpkin puree and braised chicken - $42

Summer vegetable risotto with celery heart, zucchini flowers and aged Farm House cheddar - $39

The godfather of all dishes at Flying Fish is the mud crab, cooked in a variety of styles, including Black Pepper Curry Leaf and Ginger, Chilli, Shallot. The dish is collossal and its arrival attracts gushes and excited squeals from the table.

Mud crab with Black Pepper Curry Leaf Sauce - Market price

As our empty plates were cleared away, we were all in need of something sweet. Not long after, a dessert platter, petit fours and a cheese plate arrive at the table.

Dessert platter

The dessert platter featured three of Flying Fish’s most popular desserts – including the chestnut souffle with orange, honeycomb and gingerbread ice cream ($21), Italian Amedei chocolate delice with pecans, champagne and raspberry sorbet ($21) and the lemon curd with vanilla mousse, blackberry, almond and elderflower sorbet ($17).

The chestnut souffle was my favourite dessert on the plate. It was so light in texture yet rich in chestnut flavour. The gingerbread ice cream was the perfect accompaniment and provided a little spice to cut through the sweetness.

Petit fours

Cheese plate

What begun as a leisurely dinner at Flying Fish transformed into 3 hour gastronomic extravaganza. I loved every minute of it and can’t wait to return for my next special occasion.

Catch Peter Kuruvita on Masterchef tonight

Peter will be making a guest appearance on tonight’s Masterchef, mentoring four of the contestants about crustaceans. He will be working with the Watermark Soft Shell Crab as well as WA Marron. Don’t miss it!

Win a Flying Fish goodie bag!

Flying Fish and tasted by two are offering one lucky reader a goodie bag filled with treats from Peter Kuruvita.

The goodie bag includes:
* Flying Fish Black Pepper Curry Leaf Sauce
* Flying Fish Salt and Pepper Rice Flour
* Signed copy of Recipes My Mother Cooked cookbook, a delicious collection of recipes cooked by the mothers of the nation’s favourite foodies.

To win, simply become a fan of our Facebook fan page and tell us which restaurant you’d take a loved one on a special occasion.

Competition closes on Friday 28 May, so get in quick!

Flying Fish
Jones Bay Wharf
Lower Deck
19-21 Pirrama Road
Pyrmont NSW 2009
# 02 9518 6677
www.flyingfish.com.au

Open for lunch from 12pm to 2.30pm from Tuesday to Friday and dinner from 6.00pm to 10.30pm on Tuesday through to Saturday. Flying Fish is also open for lunch on Sundays from 12pm to 3pm.

Headed by Darren Simpson (Aqua Luna, La Sala and Barrenjoey House), La Scala’s menu showcases the best of organic seasonal produce with an Italian twist. We sampled 10 or so canapes adapted from La Scala’s menu and each was a tasty morsel packed with bold flavours that were strangely familiar and new at the same time.

One dish I couldn’t get enough of was the deep fried dates, which were stuffed with almonds. The gooey caramelised centre, coupled with the crisp outer shell had me going back for seconds and thirds.

Deep fried dates, pancetta, celery seeds & almonds

Sydney rock oysters, shallot vinegar & lemon

Pasta Frolla – silverbeet, olives, thyme, crème fraiche

Goujons of flathead, tartare sauce & lemon

Goujons of flathead, tartare sauce & lemon

Prosciutto San Daniele - fresh rockmelon

Deep-fried Yamba prawns, celery seeds & lemon

Deep-fried saffron, mozzarella & basil balls / Crostini with smoked salmon crème fraiche, beetroot relish & dill

Seared sirloin of beef rolls, wild rocket, Parmesan & aged balsamic vinegar

Regrettably, I didn’t get to try Rose Gray’s legendary Chocolate Nemesis cake, a dish from Simpson’s days as Head Chef at the River Café in London. This flourless chocolate cake is as rich as it is decadent, and by the looks of the recipe, it’s one I have to come back for!

La Scala on Jersey
Corner Jersey Road & Melrose Lane
Woollahra NSW 2025
# 02 9357 0815
www.lascalaonjersey.com.au

Open Tuesday – Saturday 5.30pm till late

Fortunately, Surry Hill’s Toko is not one of these places – it has style and substance.

Smack bang in the middle of Crown Street, Toko is a real spectacle from the outside. It is architecturally striking as it is beautiful. Inside, Toko is a haven of dark woods and communal tables, with a discreet private dining room at the back.

Toko’s cocktail list is twice the thickness of the dining menu and it takes me a full 20 minutes to decide what I’ll be drinking. I settle on a Lychee Mojito, which packs a punch but with a delicate and fruity top note. My dining partner, Wendy chooses the lemon caprioska which has a really strong lemon flavour but is surprisingly sweet at the same time.

A word of caution – the prices listed on the menu are for a set quantity (even though this isn’t disclosed, but is usually for two), so if you are dining with a group, Toko automatically adjusts pricing and quantity to your group. So don’t be alarmed when you order something that’s $10 on the menu and appears as $40 on your bill.

Kingfish yuzu - $15.80

We kick off our meal with an order of kingfish carpaccio, a comforting staple dish that never fails to disappoint. The kingfish is served a tangy yuzu dressing, which strikes the perfect balance between sweet and sour.

Miso black cod - $29.50

We order the miso black cod for no better reason than to see how it would compare to the one at Nobu. Given my newly discovered allergy to certain fish, I could only afford a small nibble. The flavour is mellow and sweet while the texture is firm.

Chicken yakitori (two serves pictured) - $17.60

Beef skewers (two serves pictured) - $29.60

The kushiyaki at Toko is markedly better Azuma. The meat is more tender, tastier and the portions are quite generous (that said, Toko is significantly pricier).

The chicken and beef skewers are very tender and have retained most of their natural juices, despite being grilled over an open fire.

Pork belly (2 serves pictured) - $23.60

In true Japanese style, the pork belly skewers are cut into perfect rectangles and are pretty as a picture. The meat is very tender and well seasoned.

Wafu zucchini - $14.40

Though an unusual choice, but the wafu zucchini turns out to be Wendy’s favourite dish of the night. The zucchini is cooked just right and the tangy ginger sauce provides the perfect accompaniment.

Pork spare ribs - $17.80

The pork spare ribs were my favourite dish of the night. Slathered in bbq sauce, the ribs are very tender – the meat is so soft, it melts off the bone. No real effort is required to eat these, which is always a plus.

Grilled scallops (one serve has three scallops) - $18.80

The scallops were another highlight for me. While they were a tad overcooked on the outside, they had a very supple centre and I enjoyed the contrast in textures.

Lamb cutlets (three per serve) - $21.80

The lamb cutlets were a bit overcooked for Mr. Taste (who prefers his meat raw) but they were just right for me. The pickled eggplant was an unusual side and I still can’t figure out whether I liked them or not.

Squid tempura - $13.80

The squid tempura was another hit with the table. The dish came with detailed instructions from our waiter on how to prepare the sauce, which involved tossing the onions and corriander through the sweet and sour sauce. This gave a very subtle flavour that worked nicely with the crispness of the squid.

California maki roll - $15.80

Surprisingly we only opted for one sushi dish. Compared to all the fried, grilled and braised dishes featured on Toko’s menu, the sushi selection didn’t seem as sexy. Our california maki roll was very well made and the crab meat (the real deal) was sweet and very satisfying.

Toko Dessert Platter - Sorbets, trio of creme brulee and chocolate fondant

By the time we finished off our 12 odd courses, we put our hands up for the dessert menu. We all agreed on the chocolate fondant, creme brulee and assorted sorbets. All three desserts arrived on a bed of ice, adorned with fresh fruit. It was very decadent and we felt very spoilt.

As the table next to us watched on in awe, we made our way around the platter and compared notes on what we thought was the winning dessert. The tonka bean sorbet was my choice – the velvety texture accompanied with the subtle flavours was just what I needed to finish off the night.

Toko
490 Crown Street
Surry Hills
NSW 2010
# 02 9357 6100
www.toko.com.au

Although no Bentley ride is offered this time around, Ms. Taste and I are instead joined by a ragtag bunch of steak lovers hankering for a nice juicy steak.

$33 for a main and a drink

I arrive late to the party, as usual but this is perhaps one of the last times I will be driving into the city on a weeknight . Everyone is starving and they gesture for our waiter as soon as take my place in the booth. I usually enjoy taking the time to analyse each item on the menu to decide what I will having, but through the wonderous tubes known as the Internet, I had already performed this step during the day.

Bread! With seedage! Clear out so I can take pictures of it!

Our signature beef tartare, shoestring fries - $16 extra

I order the beef tartare. Served with crusty sourdough and fries, the mustard flavour has everyone referring to it as “fancy Maccas” for the rest of the evening. The beef is moist, tender and flavourful and my attempts to dip my fries into the meaty goo left me with a pile of bent fries. By the time I am done, I am wondering if I have enough room left for the main course.

Sashimi with ruby grapefruit, pickled limes, wasabi flying fish roe, ponzu sauce - $16 extra

The kingfish carpaccio comes with 8 fine slices of fresh sashimi with alternating grapefruit and lime wedges on each slice. The acidity of the citrus elements blends beautifully with the sweetness of the fish, while the ponzu adds a nice kick to round off the dish.

Char grilled clarence river baby octopus, kipfler potato, chorizo, romesco sauce - $16 extra

The octopus entree is well cooked and very tender, however I am glad I did not have to eat the whole serving as it’s quite substantial. Two pieces and I was already in octopus overload.

Grilled white scallops, coriander, black fungi, bean shoot, ginger black bean vinaigrette - $16 extra

The grilled scallops go down very well with the group. Accompanied with a tangy asian salad, the scallops are cooked to absolute perfection. At $28 full price, this dish has a very high price per bite value relative to the other dishes available but who ever thinks about those things, right everyone?

Rangers valley wagyu flank steak, 200g, barbeque sauce ($33 + $5)

There are no surprises when it comes to our mains: 6 medium-rare wagyu flank steaks arrive at the same time as if on cue. The flank is a tough cut, but the extra fattyness of the wagyu gives each mouthful a burst of the steak’s juicyness. The wedge of lemon is there to help with the toughness but I enjoy the meat without it, slicing myself a small chunk and savouring each meaty mouthful.

Check out them sexy abs

Plum, blackberry mascarpone trifle, spiced red wine jelly - $16 extra

The last course is a lone trifle, which is reasonably portioned for one. It’s not spectacular but gets a ‘pass’ mark from our sole desserter for the evening.

Out of the March Into Merivale offerings, I was pleased with Mad Cow (who can say no to steak) but I am going to have some trouble deciding on where to go next. I enjoyed Lotus‘ offering most at the launch party however their prices are already reasonable without the $33 promotion, so I want to take advantage of one of Merivale’s pricier restaurants. Perhaps a second shot at est?

Mad Cow
The Ivy
320 George Street
Sydney City
# 02 9240 3000
www.marchintomerivale.com