I couldn’t have been more relieved to hear this: his Quay cookbook – though an amazing visual read – is quite limited in what it offers the humble home cook. I wondered whether my foodie companions felt the same, as we sat in on this special masterclass organised by Electrolux.

Tackling the tricky category of seafood which many shy away from (myself included), Peter set out to show us how quick and easy it is to prepare seafood at home with two simple recipes: seared scallops with lime creme fraiche and sauce vierge and steamed snapper with soy and ginger.

Peter offers these tips:

* For scallops, the key is to sear quickly and evenly on a hot pan. The middle should still be glassy.

* One trick to cooking scallops is to line them up on a sheet of baking paper and wack it straight onto a hot pan.

* For steamed fish, Peter uses a pin boned snapper, which he squares off so the fillet cooks evenly. Steaming is a very delicate and healthy way of cooking fish requiring no oil at all.

* Microherbs and flowers make all the difference to the presentation of a dish by adding that special gourmet touch!

It’s a joy to watch Peter in the kitchen – he makes it all look so darn effortless, tossing ingredients together like an orchestrated symphony. His knack for turning simple ingredients into elaborate creations has earned him the awe and respect of diners around the world. You also see just how much Peter enjoys induction cooking. In fact, most of the entrees at Quay are prepared at a dedicated induction station in the kitchen.

The masterclass ended with a sinfully decadent caramelised French toast, which he confesses he has never made for his wife but will need it one day for when he’s in the dog house.

As Peter bid farewell, we all sat down for a five course degustation at a beautifully elaborate long table with the harbour lights surrounding us.

I’ve always been a fan of the produce Peter selects for his menu and tonight is no different – from the rich bluefin tuna belly and marbled Berkshire pig jowl to the crimson confection of vegetables that is the starter – each is a decadent highlight.

Southern Tuna, toro, pink turnips, jamon de bellota juniper, wasabi flowers

Slow braised Berkshire pig jowl, maltose crackling, prunes, cauliflower cream, perfumed with prune kernel oil

Salad of pickled rhubarb, endive, beetroot, purple carrot, rosa radish, kohlrabi, sheeps milk curd, pomegranate molasses, violets

What Peter does with textures is also quite intriguing. Take the corturnix quail breast for instance, slow cooking gives the quail a delicate, chewy, almost raw quality, yet it sits on a bed of creamy chestnut purée, milk skin and a crunchy mix of quinoa and walnuts. What a delightful and unusual contrast!

Slow cooked coturnix quail breast, pumpernickel, walnuts, quinoa, truffle, chestnuts, milk skin

While my companions were disappointed not to see the snow egg on the menu, the amazing caramelised white chocolate in the dessert certainly made an impression. The chocolate nibs had a dulce de leche taste about them with the aroma of roasted nuts, I could really see myself getting hooked on these!

Warm vanilla and palm blossom brioche, caramelized white chocolate, amaretto cream, walnuts and prune sorbet

Many thanks to Open Haus and Electrolux for the great evening, I certainly will be pulling out Peter’s recipes for the warmer months ahead!

We began our recent meal with a pressed terrine of confit duck and foie gras – a combination that’s hard to beat, even more so with the addition of balsamic caramel and jellied consommé. I’m quietly amazed at the thin ribbons of king brown mushrooms, which add a whole different texture to the dish.

The dish I was most keen on trying was the snapper with crispy scales. Chefs normally groom each fillet meticulously for scales but Grant King has done the exact opposite and left the scales untouched. The scales are satisfyingly crisp and add a layer of crunchy perfection to the moist fillet of snapper. If seafood is King’s passion, then this dish is his homage to the sea. The odd splashes of murky ink sauce ties everything together beautifully.

Each course at Gastro Park is a piece of art, deserving a display case in MOMA than on a plate. The lamb saddle showered with flowers and cauliflower snowflakes looks more like a woodland forest in the autumn than a humble meat and veg dish. Mushrooms get top billing in this dish and there’s plenty to choose from, in all shapes and forms too (including the genius mushroom wires). The shantarelle, king browns, shimigi and enoki layered together add heady umami flavours to the soft buttery cuts of lamb.

We ended our meal with a chocolate, honeycomb and mandarin sphere. It wasn’t my first choice but rightfully swayed after a thumbs up from our waiter. The dish appeared swirling in dry ice, with the same sort of wonder as the opening scene of a Cirque du Soleil show. When we cracked open the sphere, a velvety cream poured out and enveloped the crumbs of gingerbread, the mini macarons and the salted caramel cubes in a custard landslide. It was bliss on a plate!

Go on, if you want to see what a home run looks like, give Gastro Park a buzz now. I’m now somewhat saddened that Gastro Park has ruined me for the rest of the year, I don’t think anything else will live up to it.

Gastro Park
5-9 Roslyn Street
Potts Point
# 02 8068 1017
www.gastropark.com.au

Sepia was at the top of my ‘to dine’ list and when that opportunity finally came around last week, I already had it pegged alongside the best.

Yet, four courses in, I got worried.

The first few courses failed to strike a chord with me, whether it was the combination of ingredients, the textures or the lack of seasoning. Starting with the amuse bouche of cuttlefish, I found it too fruity and lacking in acid.

Slow poached cuttlefish with passionfruit, baby cucumber and ton buri caviar

The oysters with rice wine vinaigrette followed and again it was too sweet and syrupy for my liking.

Rock oysters with rice wine vinaigrette

The tuna also suffered from underseasoning, the flavours were too subtle for me and the result felt muddled. My dislike of goats cheese probably didn’t help either. While the flavours weren’t quite what I expected, I was amazed by the construction of this dish – simple in concept yet unspeakably elegant

Yellow fin tuna, dashi jelly and goats cheese fromage blanc

I was also let down by the scallops, which were a little rubbery and lacked any distinct taste. The chickpeas felt misplaced among the pumpkin purée and puffed rice.

Miso marinated scallop with a Japanese pumpkin puree, puffed rice and chickpeas

The turning point of our meal came when the spanner crab risotto arrived, a dish considered by many to be among Martin Benn’s best work. It was heedy and herbaceous, with just the right balance of ingredients and flavours. The buckwheat risotto was a nice touch, adding bite and texture to the dish. I loved the little flakes of crabmeat and the foam, which turned into a rich sauce when mixed in with the risotto.

Queensland spanner crab risotto with shellfish essence and tarragon butter

The mulloway was next and the sheer presentation of the dish was enough to blow me away. As the waiter walked us through the long list of components, we were later pleased to find that they didn’t overpower the fish, rather, they formed a nice complement to the lead. It’s magical when a complex combination of ingredients such as these pay off.

Palm Island mulloway, sake infused trout roe, lemon curd, squid ink, shiso leaves and lentil sprouts

Our favourite dish of the night was the duck breast. Cooked to a medium rare, it was tender, juicy and incredibly flavourful. The sweet and sour confit eggplant was a nice addition, as was the sour cream.

Roast duck, confit eggplant, eggplant puree, honey finger lime sauce and sour cream

Next up was the venison, a protein I’ve never had before. Again, cooked to a perfect rare, the venison was tender, with a richer, more intense flavour than beef. This could’ve had something to do with the boudin noir which was quite heavy and bitter.

Slow roasted venison, boudin noir and lemon mayo

While it may have taken me a while to warm up to Sepia, our dinner did end on a high note. Before a quick palate cleanser of rock melon, coconut tapioca and lemon sorbet, we readied ourselves for the ‘Forest Floor’.

Rock melon, coconut tapioca and lemon sorbet

This spectacular Heston Blumenthal-esque creation was too special for words. On a bed of chocolate soil (it alone enough to make me squeal), lay finger lime pearls, matcha powder, blackcurrant cubes, elderflowers and candied fennel leaves which had a beautiful sweet woodsy fragrance. As you loosened the ‘topsoil’, there was a velvety chocolate ganache and lavender cream. It is the single most impressive dessert I have ever had!

Forest floor

The finale was a new dessert creation known as “Japanese Stones”. Inside each of the stones were scoops of ice cream, including cherry, coconut and chocolate. The dish was finished off with a dusting of black sesame and green tea moss.

Japanese stones

Sepia has taught me a valuable lesson and that’s to not let expectations get in the way of a great meal. Next time you’re out, leave expectations at the door and simply let the chef dazzle you with their best work.

The degustation dinner at Sepia is priced at $140 per person. A special tasting menu is also available on Saturday nights.

Sepia
Darling Park
201 Sussex Street
Sydney
# 02 9283 1900
www.sepiarestaurant.com.au

From its humble beginnings as an Edwardian teahouse in the 1930′s, the Inn shot to fame in the 80′s as Australia’s first internationally recognised restaurant. It wasn’t until 2007 that the Inn took a new lease on life with the arrival of Dietmar Sawyere.

Dietmar has long had a love affair with the Inn, mesmerised by its history, allure and location. In his cookbook, Table By The River Dietmar recounts taking a hire car to Berowra Waters Inn the moment he landed on his first visit to Sydney. At that time, the restaurant was run by Tony and Gay Bilson who purchased the Inn in 1976 and commissioned architect Glenn Murcutt to redesign the building.

When Tony left the Inn in the 1980s, Gay and chef Janni Kyritsis continued the restaurant’s legacy until the mid 1990s. In 1995, Gay took up operations at Bennelong restaurant and put the Inn up for sale. While Dietmar toyed with the idea of purchasing the Inn then, he decided against it after much deliberation.

The property came up for sale again in 2007, when the Inn’s proprietor at the time, Jeremey Laws spoke to the Sydney Morning Herald about selling the restaurant. Coincedentally, Dietmar was at a turning point: Forty One was 16 years old and while he enjoyed his time in the city, he was looking for a change. Berowra Waters Inn seemed like the perfect next step.

I had read Table By The River cover to cover in preparation for my visit last Christmas. Table By The River is a pleasure to read, it takes you on a journey, anecdote after anecdote, following Dietmar’s journey in transforming Berowra Waters Inn into the two chef hat dining destination it is today. The recipes in the book are just the bonus!

The journey to Berowra Waters Inn alone is worth getting excited over. The scenic drive north takes you past sandstone valleys, oyster farms and winding ranges. The Inn itself cannot be accessed by road, so guests hop onboard a private shuttle boat that takes them to the restaurant at Dusthole Point. There’s something secretive and incredibly cultish about the whole experience.

Our lunch at the Inn began with a crunchy morsel of salmon. The addition of orange and coriander brought bold bright flavours, to the beautifully cured ribbon of fish.

The menu at Berowra Waters Inn is designed to be a degustation, a sensory tour of Dietmar’s best work. The first few courses we sampled showcased his strong repetoire, including the classics (vichysoisse with oysters), the unusual (kangaroo carpaccio) and the unexpected (razor clam spaghettini). Each was a dish of extraordinary flavour and contrast, sneaking in little surprises when you least expect it.

Being by the water, Berowra Waters Inn receives a great variety of shellfish – including mud crab, rock oysters, squid and school prawns. In addition to local product, Dietmar uses Yamba prawns, sea scallops from Queensland, yabbies from Kangaroo Island and West Australian marron. Surprisingly, lobster isn’t an ingredient that Dietmar uses often and he doesn’t miss it much either.

Seared kangaroo carpaccio, braised bell peppers, pickled shallots

Slow braised white and green asparagus, duck egg yolk crouton, grilled asparagus sauce

Razor clams, spaghettini, hand picked local mud crab, chilli and lemon beurre noisete

Chilled vichyssoise, oscietra and salmon caviars, beignets of hawkesbury oysters

By the time we reached the ‘heavier’ courses, we were well and truly won over – not only by the food but by the Inn itself. I could see how Dietmar, and so many other gastronomes before him, fell in love. Among our favourites was a tender ‘minute steak’ dressed in a peppery paste, a perfect parcel of Murray cod laced in samphire and a juicy quail breast matched with fresh languistine.

Murray cod, sweet green peas, samphire, lemon myrle

Wagyu Minute Steak

Roast local quail breast, langoustine croustillan, spinach fennel puree

Mr. Taste and I also shared the squab which was baked in a salt clay shell. We were even invited to crack open the salt clay mould before the squab was returned to the grill for some crunch and colour. On its return, the squab came beautifully dressed with wood mushrooms, gnocchi and a foie gras cromesquis. It was a hearty combination but suprisingly delicate in flavour at the same time.

Squab baked in terracotta clay, foie gras cromesquis, mixed wood mushrooms, sauteed potato gnocchi, for two persons

The dessert selection showcased the best of summer fruits, including cherries, mango, raspberry and passionfruit. My favourite was the lemon and lime custard, topped with a very eyecatching Aubergine crisp. Other desserts included a rich dark chocolate tart, a brilliant mango souffle with passionfruit ice cream and a creamy parfait.

Lemon and lime custard, aubergine crisp, strawberries, basil

Mango souffle, passionfruit ripple ice cream, mango

Dark amedei chocolate tart, raspberries, yoghurt cream

White chocolate parfait, kirsch maceraed cherries

We ended our meal, several hours later, with coffee and petit fours. Most of the diners had gone at this stage and the working week was staring at us in the face. But just for that moment, as I looked out on the Hawkesbury in all its beauty, I forgot where I was and that was a moment I would forever remember.

Petit Fours - handmade jellies, fruit mince tart and ferrero

The five course lunch degustation at Berowra Waters Inn is priced at $150 and inlcudes coffee and petit fours. Additional courses can be purchased for $25 each.

Berowra Waters Inn
Via East or West public wharves
Berowra Waters NSW 2082
# 02 9456 1027
www.berowrawatersinn.com

Perhaps it’s the name, but Cotton Duck is a little different to how I imagined it – the decor is refined, minimalist and almost industrial in its use of recycled timber and polished concrete floors. I’m especially taken by the lighting fixture of paper coils and light bulbs (it’s strangely identical to the one on display at Jared Ingersoll’s pop-up restaurant at the Powerhouse Museum a few years back).

The menu at Cotton Duck has changed slightly since its opening last year and showcases a selection of thoughtful a la carte dishes. We begin with some crusty bread, still warm on arrival, and a glass of apple cider.

My salad Lyonnaise was a nice way to start, although nowhere near as good as the version at Cutler & Co. The salad combines perfectly picked frisee lettuce leaves with a sprinkling of panchetta, croutons and a tangy vinaigrette. But it’s the warm runny egg that really brings the dish to life.

Salad Lyonnaise friseè, lardons of home cured pancetta & a soft biodynamic egg - $16

Across the table, Mr. Taste was quietly digging into his corn pudding. I sneak in a mouthful and quickly realise why he’s stayed so silent. The dish was a corn-on-corn sensory extravaganza. I couldn’t decide what was better: the velvety pudding, the sweet corn broth or the topping of roasted kernels!

Corn pudding, roasted corn and baby corn in a corn broth - $15

We settled on two very fine looking slabs of meat for our mains. Although the veal scotch fillet was a little over the ‘rare’ we requested, the fillet was juicy and well flavoured. The veal lay on a bed of creamy choron sauce, while the fluffy handcut chips, stacked Jenga style, helped soak up all its goodness.

Grass fed veal scotch fillet with chips and choron sauce - $24

My pork loin was on the drier side but nicely flavoured nonetheless. The crackling was rendered to a perfect crunch and thin enough to slice without sending pieces flying over to the next table. Yet the highlight of the dish were the tomatoes, which were incredibly sweet and reminded me of apple sauce.

Limerick free range pork loin, soubise and sweet vinegar tomatoes - $24

We ended our meal with a sorbet trio of very ‘grown up’ flavours. The coconut and kaffir was my pick of the bunch, while Mr. Taste favoured the blood orange. We weren’t so sure about the apricot and cardomom, which was a weird combination and didn’t quite hit the mark.

Sorbet trio - $12

Cotton Duck turned out to be a nice surprise and we were very impressed with the offering. It’s an affordable and guilt free meal that will put a smile on your face.

Cotton Duck
50 Holt Street
Surry Hills, NSW
# 02 8399 0250
www.danksstreetdepot.com.au

With the aim of drawing diners to what was once an empty retail space underneath Chatswood Central, Eat Street has courted the likes of Bavarian Bier Cafe, Three Bean, Crazy Wings and the tour-de-force that is Mamak.

We stopped by a few weeks ago at the invitation of Eat Street and enjoyed an east-meets-west progressive dinner at three of Eat Street’s restaurants: Bavarian Bier Cafe, Izakaya Arigato and Rocket Restaurant.

Our first stop for the evening was Bavarian Bier Cafe, which was buzzing at 7pm with a healthy crowd of after work folks. We start with beer and a pretzel – it’s the German way, we’re told. Not long after, we move onto the Bavarian Tasting Platter, which induces bouts of guilt as it drops on the table. Pork belly, schnitzel and sausages all in one heart clogging hit. But boy does it taste good – from the crunch of the crackling to the moist tender chicken breast, it’s so darn satisfying. The rocket salad does makes us feel a little better.

Next stop was Izakaya Arigato, well positioned between Bavarian and Mamak. We order a plate of sashimi and a beef sukiyaki. While the tuna is a little veiny for my liking, the salmon and kingfish are fresh and sliced thick for maximum enjoyment. The sukiyaki offers a nice mix of beef and mushroom, but is unusually spicy. We’re left a little numb and runny at the nose. Thankfully the apple sour soju soothes the fire.

Our final stop for the evening was Rocket Restaurant, which was noticeably quiet compared to the first two restaurants. We are treated to a champagne granita to start. This beautiful little refresher readied our palates for the desserts ahead, which included a mixed berry souffle, chocolate marquise and mango and raspberry parfait. The chocolate marquise was the highlight of the three, despite being the one I was looking forward to least. The luscious mousse wrapped in glossy chocolate ganache and accompanied by spicy cherries was sinfully decadent.

While Mamak may be the drawcard for most diners heading to Eat Street, it’s worth checking out the neighbours. You never know, what you find may surprise you!

Eat Street
1-5 Railway Street
Chatswood NSW 2067
www.eatst.com.au

Mum was insistent on turning whatever empty space in the garden into a vegie patch. It would first start small – a quiet corner next to the shed, an empty spot beside the pool – but slowly it would grow into a full blown patch and in no time, we were knee deep in vegetables.

Mum’s garden provided an endless supply of spinach, tomatoes, chokos, snow peas, zucchinis and beans. I thought my mum’s obsession with growing her own vegetables a little odd at the time, but now I know how truly special we were.

Like mum, having a kitchen garden is a project of passion for Stefano Manfredi, who opened Manfredi at Bells in 2007. We had the pleasure of spending Saturday up at Bells at Killcare with a lovely group of food writers who were just as keen on seeing Steve’s edible garden as I was.

It’s Steve’s ultimate dream to create a menu that is harvested solely from the garden. And Steve is well on the way of getting there: the kitchen garden at Bells is impressive to say the least. It’s home to several varieties of artichoke, lettuce, herbs and root vegetables including onion, garlic and turnip. While this is enough to support a good portion of the Bells menu, Steve also introduces quality local produce to fill in the gaps, such as rock oysters from the Hawkesbury, crayfish from the nearby McMasters Beach and honey from the bees next door. Nothing gets thrown away in the Bells kitchen – what doesn’t get used goes back into the garden in the form of compost.

Steve’s garden doesn’t just stop at vegetables. There’s also a sizeable chook community who roam and forage under the watchful eye of Enzo, an Italian sheepdog brought in especially to protect the hens from predators.

There was no better way to enjoy the fruits of Steve’s labour than sitting down for a six-course lunch with a menu dedicated to the garden. Though he works with traditional ingredients, the combination Steve creates from those ingredients are particularly intriguing. Steve’s food is like a good novel – there’s a beginning, middle and an end – and takes you on a journey, from the moment the dish arrives to the last bite.

Our lunch begins with an amuse bouche of eggplant ‘meatballs’. These balls are packed with eggplant, capers, anchovies and bread crumbs, with the hidden surprise centre of Pecorino cheese.

Eggplant 'meatballs' polpettine di melanzana

The meatballs are followed by a sublime dish of tomato. Moist and juicy on the inside, and sweet on the outside, the tomato is a perfect example of what good produce does for a dish. The tomato is accompanied by artichoke hearts and a chunky cannellini bean cream, which is beautifully flavoured and provides a nice balance of textures.

Tomato with spring herbs, artichoke and cannellini cream

As we moved onto the seafood course, we all notice a distinct aroma of roasted garlic. It envelopes the senses in the same way that chocolate, popcorn and fresh cookies is known to do. Our dish of baby calamari sits in a light peppery broth, stuffed full with a juicy scattering of prawns.

Calamaretti stuffed with prawns, polenta di storo

Our next dish is a lamb sachetti – or ‘little sacks of lamb’, as Steve so eloquently translates. The pasta has a beautiful texture with lots of bite, while the minced lamb filling is matched with fresh rosemary and mint. The warm, luscious tomato sauce really brings the dish home for me.

Lamb sacchetti

We couldn’t have been happier to finish our meal with duck. The roasted duck breast sits on a bed of turnip tops, which have been pan tossed with some garlic. I was really quite taken by the turnip tops, which tasted like a cross between choy sum and Chinese broccoli. The pickled radish on the other hand was a little intense in flavour, but did complement the richness of the duck.

Roast duck breast, pickled turnips, braised turnip tops

Dessert arrives in the form of a cherry and almond tart. Steve explains that the tart pastry was cooked together with custard cream and fresh cherries in one easy step – no blind baking required! I instantly fall in love with the rosemary ice cream, which was sweet and aromatic, especially with the addition of pine nuts and praline.

Baked cherry custard tart, pine nut and rosemary gelato

We each left Bells that afternoon with a goodie bag of vegetables, which I promptly delivered to mum that evening. The idea of a restaurant with its own kitchen garden got her so excited that a return visit to Bells is very much in order. After all, she’s already planning what to grow next year.

Bells at Killcare
107 The Scenic Rd
Killcare Heights NSW 2257
# 02 4360 2411
www.bellsatkillcare.com.au

The Champagne Chef’s Table is a celebration dinner that features five of Luke Mangan’s signature dishes, perfectly paired with five exceptional Veuve Clicquot champagnes. Set at the glass chef’s table, diners are spoilt with their own Veuve Clicquot champagne station and sparkling silverware by Georg Jensen. It’s a special way to celebrate birthdays and anniversaries.

glass brasserie is a stunning restaurant, with tall ceilings, immaculate settings and circular banquettes. There may not be stunning water views or acid-bright furniture, but glass is a restaurant you want to visit and keep coming back to.

The chef’s table is located right next to the glass kitchen, which sits seamlessly at the far end of the restaurant. It’s always interesting to watch the kitchen at work, and as it’s a tame Monday night, the mood is more cordial than chaos.

After brief introductions, we are presented with a silver George Jensen platter. The sourdough is an unusual combination at first inspection (sultanas? in bread? at dinner?) but it turns out to be a happy marriage of flavours. I slather the bread with the creamy Lescure butter and indulge in a few slices before our entree arrives.

We begin our abbreviated Champagne Chef’s Table experience with the Hiramasa Kingfish sashimi, a staple Luke Mangan dish. The fish is cut very finely and layered in a ginger and eschallot dressing. The sweetness of the dressing initially throws me off, as there’s no acid to balance the flavour. But together with the feta and rocket, this dish takes on a new dimension. I am won over by the creamy soft texture of the Persian feta, which is nothing like the crumbly supermarket variety.

The entree is paired with the Veuve Clicquot Vintage 2002, which is a full bodied champagne with a dark golden colour. The champagne really does round out the flavours in the Kingfish and our pairing is off to a good start.

Given the relatively simple presentation of the entree, we are surprised when our second course arrives. With lilac borag flowers and glossy baby zucchinis, this dish looks like spring on a plate. It’s also exclusive to the Champagne Chef’s Table and not available on the a la carte menu.

The duck breast is beautifully cooked with maple and lavender – it is juicy and supple at the centre with a slight crust around the outside. The almond puree is so incredibly finely milled that it slips down like cream. The addition of zucchini and fig bring some seasonality to the dish but also balances out the flavours in the duck very nicely.

Our second course is paired with the Veuve Clicquot Vintage Rose 2004, which is a little heavier and is designed to replicate a full bodied red, such as Pinot Noir or Cabernet Savignon.

The dessert of creme brulee is very generous in portion, and reminds me of the creme brulee I had in Paris before Mr. Taste popped the question. The top layer of caramelised sugar has a slight bitterness, which is a quality I really look forward to in burnt sugar. The custard has a beautiful vanilla flavour, which is complemented by the wonderful nutty aroma of the macadamia biscotti.

The creme brulee is paired with a Demi Sec, which is one of the few bottles left worldwide. glass has purchased all 12 and saved it for special occasions, such as these. It is spritely, with a subtle hint of sweetness and acidity – almost like a prosecco.

The concept of a five-course meal paired with champagne is a little dangerous, especially on a week night, but it is the silly season after all and we thoroughly enjoyed the treat.

The five-course Champagne Chef’s Table dinner is priced at $299 per person and is available now until the end of December.

glass brasserie
Level 2, Hilton Hotel Sydney
488 George Street
# 02 9265 6068
www.glassbrasserie.com.au

One in particular that’s always bugged me is the Friday Prix Fixe lunch at Marque. Marque’s Friday Prix Fixe menu changes regularly and is a way for the restaurant to experiment with new dishes and take advantage of seasonal produce. Priced at $45 for three courses, it is one of the best value meals in this city.

Marque is located along the Crown Street gastrostrip, within an eyeshot of Billy Kwong’s and Bills. Its shopfront is discreet and unassuming, and continues inside with a very muted, understated vibe. There’s no music, merely the buzz of conversations flowing freely around the room.

Once we place our orders, we survey the room and notice that most diners are taking up the prix fixe menu – with only one or two opting for the full seven course degustation.

Our amuse bouche arrives, teetering on a moulded plate. The chaud froid served in an empty egg shell is a dish of contrasting tastes, temperatures and textures. Mr. Taste and I take a moment of silence to decipher our creamy mouthful. Whilst only a starter, it so eloquently summarises everything that’s great about Marque: pure flavours with a hint of experimentation.

An entree of cos lettuce follows shortly after. Don’t laugh, because this was the most amazing piece of lettuce I’ve ever tasted – or ever will taste. The marriage of sour, smokey and caramel flavours is spellbinding. I also notice the detail in the carrot and celery brunoise, which is diced so finely I initially mistake it for rice grains.

Mr. Taste and I were really worked up by this stage and our mouths water a little at the thought of the dish that awaits us next.

Our main is the wagyu rib cap, which is a chewy but flavoursome cut of meat. It’s almost like beef bubblegum – the more you work at it, the more flavoursome it becomes. Accompanying the beef on the plate is a cucumber foam, which adds a touch of freshness to the dish, and browned shallots that are sweet on the tongue.

As we polish off another delicious course, the waiter reappears with our palate cleanser, which is a sauternes custard. It’s almost a pre-dessert in itself because it’s so rich and decadent. The slightly bitter caramel is addictive and leaves you hanging for more, long after you’ve finished.

Sadly, this is where the wonder ends. Our dessert course of cocoa noodles cruelly brings us back down to earth. We don’t think it was a terrible dish, it just wasn’t for us. Our main issue was with the yoghurt ‘water’, which in itself was aromatic and lovely, but when mixed with the cocoa, slowly started to resemble dirty dish water. It was an unusual dish, treading too fine a line between experimentation and reality.

Mr. Taste looks up at me, halfway through the dessert and said, “we had a good run.”

Indeed we did, five out of six dishes ain’t half bad.

Marque
4/5 355 Crown Street
Surry Hills NSW 2010
# 02 9332 2225
www.marquerestaurant.com.au

So when Maze opened in Melbourne, I didn’t jump at it the way I thought I would. In fact, it was on pure chance that we ended up there. The funny thing was, it turned out to be my favourite meal of the whole three days I was in Melbourne – it trumped Vue de Monde, Nobu, Fog and all 17 restaurants from Taste of Melbourne.

Earlier that day, I planned a spa morning for my girlfriends and I at Isika Day Spa at the top of Crown Metropol. The place was truly amazing and was purpose built as a day spa – not an after thought like most in-hotel spas are. After 3 hours of massages, lounging by the infinity pool, steam room and floating on water bubbles in the vitality pool, we were ready to eat.

As we headed downstairs to Maze, we approached the hostess for a table for five, which she happily accomodated. We even put the pressure on, with only one hour to finish our meals in time for our flight back to Sydney.

We each ordered the lunch set menu – which offered 3 courses for $38 or 4 courses for $49. This is unbelievable value and highly recommend it to those thinking of dining there.

As we waited for our first course to arrive, we were brought bread and a pot of seaweed butter, which reminded me of the truffle butter I had at Tetsuya’s. While it tasted different, it was every bit as addictive as the version at Tet’s.

I started with the tuna tataki which surprised with every bite – and every bite tasted slightly different from the last. There were notes of citrus, coriander, mayo and soy. The cubes of tuna was perfectly shaped and cut, not stewy at all. This was a sensational dish and really set the tone for the courses to come.

Another entree was the haddock. The creamy foam enveloped the smokey flavours in the fish while the watercress added a touch of freshness. The soft poached egg was the icing on the cake.

Second course was a picturescque square of barramundi fillet with crisp fried skin. This perfect piece of fish was finished off with a butternut squash puree, compressed cucumber and pumpkin seeds.

Another option was the ‘ox tongue and cheek’, featuring a braised piece of beef cheek which was fall apart soft and doused in plenty of jus to keep it moist.

My main course was the pork belly – and wow, what a dish. The pork had a beautiful crisp crackling and was a perfectly rendered. The accompanying dashi broth really brought the dish alive and bound eveyrthing together. My favourite part of the dish was the very subtle hints of szechuan which added flavour, and not so much heat.

With 20 minutes to spare, our waiters brought over our desserts. The coconut and white chocolate panna cotta looked nothing of the sort. Served with a steaming hot friand on the side, the panna cotta had a mango and black olive caramel centre. It sparked a little debate around the table whether the dish was adventurous and just too experimental.

The other dessert was a sheep’s yoghurt mousse with frozen blackberry, walnut ice cream and a honey oat crumble. It was a lovely dish of contrasts – not only in flavour, but also in texture and temperature.

And so of course, as we hurried to the airport on time, the irony was that our flight was delayed by an hour.

Ahh… could’ve sprung for the four course after all!

Maze
Crown Metropol
8 Whiteman Street
Southbank Melbourne Victoria 3006
# 03 9292 8300
www.crownmetropol.com.au/maze